The All Important Skin Lipid Barrier

The All Important Skin Lipid Barrier

Introducing a new educational series for our customers and fans:

Skincare 101 with Dr. Adrienne Denese, MD PhD

"Knowledge is the first step to your most beautiful skin. Every Wednesday, I’m opening my lab notes to share a new "class" on the clinical science behind skincare. Consider this your personal library of skin education - designed to help you look past the marketing and understand the real biology of aging."  ~ Dr. Denese

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Understanding the Barrier

Think of the skin barrier as a brick wall shielding the body living structure made of cells, lipids, water-binding molecules and microbial life. It’s a visual that works beautifully in client conversations because it helps illustrate why we can’t chase every exciting acid or active without also supporting the skin’s foundation.

In this metaphor, corneocytes are the bricks. The lipid lamellae between them (primarily ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids) form the mortar that locks those bricks into place and keeps the barrier sealed. Inside each brick live the Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), the internal water reservoirs that keep corneocytes hydrated, flexible and able to fit tightly into the lipid mortar. When these internal reserves drop, the bricks dry out, shrink and the entire structure becomes more vulnerable.

Here’s a broken-down explanation to really paint the picture.

The Bricks: Corneocytes

These flattened, protein-rich cells make up the outermost layer of the skin. Their job is simple but essential: create the physical structure of the barrier. When they are well-hydrated and intact, they form a smooth, even, resilient surface.

The Mortar: The Lipid Matrix

Between every corneocyte is a highly organized mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. These lipids arrange themselves into lamellar sheets that seal the barrier, prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep irritants out. Without this "mortar," even the healthiest corneocytes can’t hold the wall together.

Inside the Bricks: Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs)

NMFs sit within each corneocyte, acting like built-in humidifiers. This blend of amino acids, sodium PCA, lactate, urea, sugars and electrolytes draws water into the cells and helps them stay plump enough to interlock with the lipid mortar. When NMFs are depleted, the bricks lose volume, leading to cracking, flaking and increased reactivity.

Repairing and Maintaining the Barrier

Now that you understand the "brick wall," the next step is to show you how to rebuild it, and more importantly, how to keep it strong through all the seasons. 

If you are using our HydroShield Ultra Moisturizing Serum, morning and night, you  have no reason to worry about your Skin Lipid Barrier, it is taken care of. 

Our HydroShield Ultra Moisturizing Serum is the ultimate in recreating the skin lipid barrier as it contains very high levels of skin identical lipids such as ceramides and Free Fatty Acids. Our proof is that an Independent Clinical study has found a 198% increase in skin lipid content in as little as 15 minutes. These lipids are the foundation of the Skin Lipid Barrier.

Our night creams are designed to follow our HydroShield Serum, such as:

All these products contain the critical elements needed to recreate the Skin Lipid Barrier such as: Squalane, Ceramides, Free Fatty Acids, Triple Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium PCA, peptides and Amino Acids. I am using very high levels of these incidents, significantly higher than even super expensive department store brands are using because this is my basic principle of product creation. 

If you are using my products, your Skin Lipid Barrier is well taken care of!

Love you guys!

Dr. Denese

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