Introducing a new educational series for our customers and fans:
SkinScience 101 with Dr. Adrienne Denese, MD PhD
"Knowledge is the first step to your most beautiful skin. Every Wednesday, I’m opening my lab notes to share a new "class" on the clinical science behind skincare. Consider this your personal library of skin education - designed to help you look past the marketing and understand the real biology of aging." ~ Dr. Denese
If Retinol is the "biological software update" for your skin, Glycolic Acid is the high-speed demolition crew. It doesn't wait for your cells to decide to turn over; it goes in and physically dissolves the "glue" holding the old ones in place.
The Smallest Ninja: Why Glycolic Wins
Glycolic Acid is the smallest of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). In chemistry, size matters. Because its molecular weight is so low, it can penetrate the skin deeper and faster than its "larger" cousins like Lactic or Mandelic acid.
Think of it as the difference between a pebble and a boulder—the pebble (Glycolic) slips through the cracks of your skin's surface to do the heavy lifting in the deeper layers of the stratum corneum.
The Science of the "Sticky Brick"
Your skin cells (corneocytes) are like bricks, and they are held together by "mortar" called desmosomes. As we age, or due to sun damage, these bricks get stuck. They don't fall off when they should, leading to a complexion that looks like a dusty, old, grey sidewalk.
Glycolic acid works via chemexfoliation:
- Ionic Interference: It lowers the pH of the skin, causing a biochemical reaction that weakens the calcium ions holding those "cellular glue" (desmosomes) together.
- The Great Dissolver: Once the glue is dissolved, the dead, dull cells slide off effortlessly.
- The Hydration Bonus: Interestingly, Glycolic acid is also a humectant. It loves water. As it exfoliates, it pulls moisture into the new, fresh cells it has just revealed.
The Family Tree: AHAs vs. BHAs
Not all acids are created equal. Depending on your skin, you might need a different member of the AHA/BHA Family.
The Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) - "The Surface Polishers"
All AHAs are water-soluble. They work primarily on the surface to fix texture, pigment, and fine lines.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - "The Pore Vacuum"
There is really only one BHA used in skincare: Salicylic Acid. Unlike AHAs, BHA is oil-soluble.
- How it works: Because it loves oil, it doesn't just sit on the surface. It dives into the pore, dissolves the sebum (oil) plug, and clears out the debris that causes blackheads and breakouts.
- The Bonus: It is chemically related to Aspirin, meaning it has natural anti-inflammatory properties. It calms the redness of a pimple while it's busy killing it.
The Ultimate Comparison: Which One Do You Need?
Pro-Tip: You can think of AHAs as a lawnmower (clearing the grass on top) and BHAs as a Roto-Rooter (clearing the pipes/pores underneath).
In Summary: How They Help Your Skin
- Texture: AHAs (especially Glycolic) turn "sandpaper" skin into "silky skin" by removing the uneven top layer.
- Acne: BHAs (Salicylic) are the gold standard for preventing "clogged pores" and they shrink enlarged pores.
- Anti-Aging: By triggering a "mini injury" response, AHAs can actually stimulate collagen production over time, much like a very mild version of a professional peel.
- This is how a good AHA product can tighten the skin. In fact, our Glycolic Acid based Advanced Firming Facial Pads were studied in an independent testing lab and it was found that these pads are able to measurably tighten the skin by 31% in 28 days. Think about it, tighter by almost one third. This is a huge number for a topical peel. This was a Cutometer study.
- By stimulating collagen production, lines and wrinkles are visibly better as well, after about one month. If Collagen increases, it reduces pore size in time.
- Radiance: Both acids increase light reflection. When your skin is smooth, light bounces off it evenly (glow); when it's rough, light gets trapped in the "cracks" (dullness).
A Note of Caution
Because these acids remove your skin's protective "dust cover," your face becomes significantly more sensitive to the sun. If you use Glycolic acid on Monday and skip sunscreen on Tuesday, you are essentially "burning" the youngest, most vulnerable cells you just worked so hard to reveal.
We LOVE using AHA/BHA extensively in our line!
AHA/BHA Exfoliating Liquid: the unsung hero in our line. Loaded with AHA/BHA ready to work on your skin. It is a sin not to use it every morning. The results are remarkable: clarity, even skin tone, improvement in the look of tightness, firmness and lines.
Advanced Firming Facial Pads: the independently assessed hero. Independent Cutometer study found a 31% increase in skin tightness and fitness, due to increased collagen production. Excellent for lines, wrinkles and pores, for the same reason
Firming Facial Collagen Night Serum: guaranteed to impress. Multiple AHA working on your skin continuously all night. Results that are easy to see in a few days and keep getting better.
RetinMax Peel Pads: Retinoate PLUS strong AHA, you can not get any better. Not for every day, most people alternate with Firming Facial Pads. First you will notice that your skin is more even. A few weeks later, lines start to vanish from view.
Peel & Glow Rx Set: skip the Spa, save the money but look like you spent a half a day in a Spa.
Collagen Firming Peel Off Mask: Do not go to an event, church, wedding, family get together, without it. You will look so much better!
Firming Facial Microdermabrasion Cream: so effective, you will notice a change right away!
Thank you, my friends!
Adrienne Denese
CLICK HERE to learn about OTHER active ingredients in your skincare!