SkinScience 101 with Dr. Adrienne Denese, MD PhD
"Knowledge is the first step to your most beautiful skin. Every Wednesday, I’m opening my lab notes to share a new "class" on the clinical science behind skincare. Consider this your personal library of skin education - designed to help you look past the marketing and understand the real biology of aging." ~ Dr. Denese
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Scrub. Dermaplane. Dissolve. Enzymatically Exfoliate.
We know exfoliation can help reveal smoother, brighter, more refined-looking skin—but did you know there are several very different ways to exfoliate?
From traditional scrubs to acids, enzymes and dermaplaning, each method approaches the surface of the skin differently.
1. PHYSICAL EXFOLIATION
The Traditional Scrub
Physical exfoliation uses small particles or a textured surface to manually remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface.
Think facial scrubs, polishing powders, brushes and exfoliating cloths.
Why use it?
It can provide an immediate smoother, polished feel and help remove surface buildup.
Keep in mind: More isn't necessarily better. Excessive pressure or frequent exfoliation can irritate the skin.
2. DERMAPLANING
Precision Physical Exfoliation
Dermaplaning is also a form of physical exfoliation—but instead of abrasive particles, a blade is used to gently remove surface dead skin cells and fine facial hair, often called peach fuzz.
The result? Skin can immediately look and feel smoother and more refined, while makeup may apply more evenly.
3. CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION
Let Acids Do the Work
Chemical exfoliants use ingredients such as AHAs and BHAs to loosen or dissolve the bonds that hold dead surface skin cells together.
AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, primarily work at the skin's surface.
BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and can penetrate into oily pores, making them particularly useful for congested or oily skin.
No scrubbing required.
4. ENZYMATIC EXFOLIATION
A Different Approach to Surface Buildup
Enzyme exfoliants commonly use enzymes derived from fruits such as papaya and pineapple.
Rather than mechanically polishing the skin or relying primarily on exfoliating acids, enzymes help break down proteins associated with dead surface skin cells.
The result can be a gentler-feeling exfoliation experience that helps improve the look and feel of surface texture.
SO, WHICH EXFOLIATION METHOD IS BEST?
There isn't one method that's right for everyone.
- Physical exfoliation → Immediate polishing & smoothing
- Dermaplaning → Surface exfoliation + removal of peach fuzz
- Chemical exfoliation → Acid-based exfoliation without scrubbing
- Enzymatic exfoliation → Enzyme-based surface exfoliation
The best choice depends on your skin type, sensitivity, skincare goals and the other active ingredients in your routine.
And remember: exfoliation is about removing what your skin no longer needs—not overworking healthy skin.
SMOOTHER-LOOKING SKIN STARTS WITH SMART EXFOLIATION.
Dr. Adrienne Denese