Introducing a new educational series for our customers and fans:
Skincare 101 with Dr. Adrienne Denese, MD PhD
"Knowledge is the first step to your most beautiful skin. Every Wednesday, I’m opening my lab notes to share a new "class" on the clinical science behind skincare. Consider this your personal library of skin education - designed to help you look past the marketing and understand the real biology of aging." ~ Dr. Denese
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As of 2026, dermatological research has solidified a "gold standard" list of actives that are clinically proven to provide measurable results. Here are simple explanations of what those active ingredients are and what they do for your skin!
The Heavy Hitters (Structural Repair)
These ingredients actually change the way your skin functions to firm and smooth deep lines.
- Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, Tretinoin): Still the undisputed champion. They speed up cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. For mature skin, Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is increasingly popular as it is one step closer to prescription-strength than Retinol, but often less irritating.
- Retinoate is the next advancement in retinols, with even greater efficacy and less irritation. It is the top of the retinol family. (We at SkinScience only use Retinoate.)
- Peptides: Think of these as "messengers." They signal your skin to produce more collagen and elastin. Look for copper peptides or matrikines (like Matrixyl 3000), which are specifically designed to address skin sagging.
- Growth Factors & Exosomes: These are the cutting edge of 2026 skincare. They mimic natural human signaling molecules to repair damaged tissue and improve skin density, which is often lost as we age.
The Brighteners (Tone and Texture)
Older skin often experiences "age spots" or a dull, sallow appearance.
- Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid or THD Ascorbate): A powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals from the sun and brightens dark spots. THD Ascorbate is a newer, oil-soluble form that penetrates deeper and is often better for the drier nature of older skin.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): This is the ultimate multitasker. It strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness, and minimizes the appearance of large pores.
- Glycolic Acid (AHA): An exfoliant that dissolves the "glue" holding dead skin cells together.11 Because it has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, it penetrates most effectively to reveal fresher skin.
The Hydrators (Plumping and Barrier Support)
Mature skin produces less oil and loses moisture more quickly.
- Ceramides: These are essential lipids that make up the skin's protective barrier. Without them, even the best anti-aging ingredients can cause irritation.
- Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid: Older formulations used one large molecule that sat on top of the skin. Modern 2026 "Hyaluronic Multi-Complexes" use varying molecular weights to hydrate both the surface and the deeper layers for a "plumping" effect.
- Bakuchiol: A plant-based alternative to retinol. While less potent than a retinoid, it is much gentler and can be used during the day or by those with very sensitive, thin skin.
Potency Summary Table
A Note on Sunscreen
No matter how potent these ingredients are, they cannot work if the skin is not protected. Mineral Sunscreen (Zinc Oxide) is now highly recommended for older skin because it provides a physical shield against UV rays and is less likely to irritate thinning skin compared to chemical filters.
Our SPF 40 Day Defense Cream is a mineral (physical) sunscreen.
Please take care of your skin!
Thank you, my Friends!
Dr. Denese